But a rack of lamb is not the Roman Empire.

“And yet, I think it was a better description of the market than they had, because the least of the market is the food.”

"What is it then?" Hardesty asked, though he already knew.

"Buying and selling, faces, the color, the light, the stories that breed within it, its spirit. Where else would you find all these clear lights strung so high and gleaming in the cold?" she asked, indicating the chains of electric bulbs over the stalls. "Harry Penn got a telegram from Craig Binky, that said, ‘How can you cover the market and not mention food?' Imagine, they send telegrams between two offices on the same square. Harry Penn cabled back, 'Eating assassinates the spirit.' 

"I like to eat," she said. "In fact, I'm hungry right now. But a rack of lamb is not the Roman Empire."

Mark Helprin, Winter's Tale.

This pretty much sums up how I feel about food writing.